Milwaukee Wine Fest rides out the storm

It was warm and muggy as I made my way to the Milwaukee Wine Festival on Friday night.  As I stepped onto the grounds of the Milwaukee Art Museum, the wind began to pick up and the not-too-distant sky looked ominous. Billed as a “rain or shine” event, I figured there was nothing much to worry about; there would be cover available and hell, there were new wines calling my name.

Mark Goodman, Wine Director for Sendik’s stores had told me days earlier that the goal of the event was “everyday wines for everyday people,” and that is precisely what was delivered. Lots of $10 whites with bright acidity and straight-forward flavors, and accessible, easy drinking fruit-forward reds in the $15 range.There were plenty of wines to drink without concern for budget or pretense, and that in and of itself, is something worthwhile.

There were exceptions of course, as some vendors brought in cases of their higher priced, more complex wines. Michael-David Winery poured its well-known “7 Deadly Zins” and also “Lust Zinfandel,” with luscious ripe berry and spice flavors and great depth, color and tannin structure.

Over at the Empson USA booth, the Terrabianca Campaccio from Tuscany was a revelation and more than worthy of its $24 price tag. It’s what’s known as a “Super Tuscan” because it’s made not only from the traditional grape of Chianti, Sangiovese, but also Cabernet Sauvignon. (When any grape other than those native to Tuscany are added to the red wines of this region, they are known as Super Tuscan.) It’s a nicely balanced, medium bodied wine with concentrated flavors of black cherry and plum, soft tannins, and a nice finish. It had me craving a tenderloin sandwich from the nearby Capital Grille booth.

Another standout was the Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon from TGIC (Thank God It’s Chile). This used to be this winery’s entry-level Cab, but it’s since moved up a notch. Made from grapes grown on the the  slopes of Apalta in the Colchagua Valley of Chile, it’s aged for 12 months in French oak barrels and has an intense ruby color with flavors of red fruits in balance with well-integrated oak and a nice finish.  At $19.99, Montes Alpha is worth seeking out.

At the Trinchero booth , I sampled the Joel Gott Cabernet and Zin, both eminently drinkable.I also had a quick taste of the Wente Winery wines, where the Chardonnays are a standout.

Within 30 minutes, however, it began to rain with serious intent. While a few prescient (and polite) vendors moved their tables back so people could get some cover, most did not, leaving us standing in the rain and generally unable to taste more wine or avoid getting soaked.

The sky turned black as all vendors and participants scurried en masse to the MAM’s underground parking structure, where we were encouraged to gather for shelter. The great thing about being forced to ride out a storm together in a huddled mass is that new friends are often made as the best of people rise to the surface (coaxed of course by the fermented juice of the grape) .

Although there was little visible damage save for one collapsed tent, it was announced that the evening’s events were canceled. Most left, but the few who stayed were treated with the camaraderie that comes from a shared experience and the generosity of a vendor or two.

Robert Ash, Executive Chef for the Pfister Hotel, put out his pan of pulled pork and buns and invited everyone to help themselves. I was fortunate that the two friendly women staffing the Wollersheim Winery booth were still standing their ground. Their Syrah was a pleasant surprise, although their red wine using the Marechal Foch grape was not quite to my liking. (Fun fact: The scenic and historic site of the Wollersheim Winery was selected by European vintners over 150 years ago and is one of America’s oldest winery properties.)

Although I didn’t get back the next day for a more complete experience, without another Mother Nature tirade I can only suspect Saturday’s event went off smoothly including music, demonstrations, and lots more wine poured, quaffed and enjoyed.